Something So Right/Wrong

I revisited the Clay Pot this week at the request of some friends. I had not been there in over a year so I felt it was time to refresh my memory. There are many good things about a visit to the CP including the multiple spice smells as you walk in the door. The combination of curry, tea, and several other scents make your mouth begin to water before the menus arrive.

I noted a few changes in the menu since my last visit and ordered Nancy's Special. This combination of noodles, meat, and fruit slices sounded delicious and looked almost as good when it was served. The flavors were fine but... Some of the fruit was a bit past its prime. The spring roll was dried out. The portions were small. The price was too high for what was served. All good reasons to come here only once a year. I keep hoping things will get better.

That's kind of a theme with several Waco restaurants that have a good deal of potential and a number of redeeming qualities but just can't seem to get it right. The taste/quality of the food at Clay Pot is generally good to very good but they trip up on some important details that keep them from being a really good restaurant.

A recent visit to Zack and Jim's Hog Creek Icehouse was much the same story. The 8,000 square foot facility is a great looking place. Big open dining room, private upstairs, and a large patio out back. This place was made for music both indoors and outdoors.

Nothing too original on the menu but with a little effort Hog Creek could compete with Lake Brazos Steakhouse or Cotton Patch or any number of others that have this type of burger, sandwich, CFS, or steak menu. Unfortunately the kitchen can't execute this simple basic Texas concept. The service was efficient. The drinks appeared right on time but the food took forever on a day when only 20-25 people were in for lunch.

When it did arrive, the food was just not up too par. When I asked my companions to compare our lunch with Lake Brazos, we all agreed that the food was superior at LBSH without question. Although the building was more interesting and exciting, even the burgers did not meet expectations.

I saved the number one complaint for last. The smell of stale beer and smoke for the bar covered the whole dining room. Despite being enclosed, the smells from the bar ruined the dining atmosphere. Not much excuse for this. I understand that this is a bar. I doubt if food sales at lunch pay 10% of Hog Creek's bills but really.... most people will find this a turnoff.

The technology exists to properly ventilate the non-smoking areas of a restaurant. I just takes a little effort to have a kitchen that can turn out top notch Texas standards. It is so easy for something(s) right to be canceled out by something wrong.

Comings and Goings

On a drive down I-35 a couple of weeks ago, I saw that Temple is getting a new BJ's Restaurant/Brewhouse. I have eaten at the BJ's at Vista Ridge Mall near I-35 and Lewisville area. It is a decent upscale burger place that would have certainly added to the Waco food scene. Too bad our two new sites - Legends Crossing and Texas Central Marketplace couldn't land this one. Oh well, we will at least have another great Bush's Fried Chicken.

BJ's is an 11 state chain that originated in Santa Ana, California in 1978.

Our menu features BJ’s own delicious, innovative spin on your favorite foods, including deep dish pizzas, salads, sandwiches, pastas, steaks, baby back ribs and so much more. And of course, everything tastes better with BJ’s own handcrafted beer.

Yanni's in West has given up on the difficult task of attracting people off of I-35 and from Waco to enjoy the tasty Greek fare they presented. As stated in an earlier post, the owner purchased the 1424 restaurant here in Waco. I hope they present some Greek specialties at 1424. Most of the food I had at Yanni's was quite good.

I continue to be amazed at how many fast food restaurants can be jammed into the 4th, 5th, 6th street corridor at 1-35. The rebuilt McDonald's is open - but what a disappointment. McD's has all sorts of interesting designs that would have looked great in that area. Instead, we get the fashionable tan cinder block decor. How special! The Whataburger is undergoing an interior redo that promises to be a unique Waco look.

At least, the new Basa-whatiz on 6th St. looks interesting. It this a restaurant during the day or a lounge at night. Slow construction (and street blocking) probably not enough parking could turn this whole area into a Saturday night war-zone.

Another McAlister's on Waco Drive? Why? Another Mazzio's Pizza coming to the same area? Again why? Everyone knows the bowling alley has all the good food in that block. Seriously, why not a nicer Zio's Italian Kitchen instead of the sibling Mazzio's???? Both are owned by the Tulsa, OK based Mazzio's Corporation. Why couldn't we get the nicer one?

Great Expectations

In the last two weeks, I have visited two newer establishments in the Waco area. One I had eagerly anticipated - The Green Room Grille and the other - The Wild West Steakhouse and Saloon in West I stumbled on by accident. These are two very different kinds of food experiences. The Green Room will cost you $40 to $50 per person while dinner for two at the Wild West will be less that $50 for two. Both of these places met the expectations I had for them before I entered the restaurant but neither scored an A.

It would have been very easy for the Wild West to establish itself as one of the better outpost country steakhouses in and around Waco. It is in a nicely refitted building with a lot of stuff on the walls that give it a country barn sort of atmosphere. It was comfortable and not too noisy even though they had a good Saturday night crowd.

You can have your steak grilled or charbroiled - with or without garlic butter. My charbroiled sirloin came medium as ordered with a side of delicious mushrooms. They are not stingy with the garlic at the Wild West. My steak had a teaspoon of chopped garlic and melted butter sizzling on top.

Although we seemed to change waiters at least twice during the meal, I can't say that the service was anything but attentive. At least four people combined to make my experience a good one.

So why is the Wild West not quite an A? It is the little things. Lets start with the salad. The nice sized side salad served with dinner was tasty enough and had enough different ingredients that you could call it a garden salad. But it was obvious that there were bowls of salad made up in advance and placed in the refrigerator. Instead of filling a small bowl from a larger premade salad, my small salad was left to dry out a little around the edges uncovered in the chiller. I was glad to hear that they had a bleu cheese dressing (which had real chunks of bleu) but disappointed to see it served in a two ounce tub with a plastic lid.

One of the biggest failings of local steakhouses like Lake Brazos, Miller's, Lone Star, or Heitmiller's is to serve condiments is a very cheap and unappealing way. Why not bring it in a small bowl with a serving spoon? Unless we are talking fast food at a counter, I don't enjoy liquid butter and salad dressing in a squeeze bottle or ketchup, sour cream, and salad dressing in packages. It is such a short step to butter, dressings, and sauces presented at the table in a proper way. Plastic containers at the table do not add to that homey atmosphere.

Wild West also fell short in the bread department as well. Rolls (preferably homemade), French, Italian, German or a sourdough loaf would work fine. The sliced white bread I was served with my steak and baked potato seemed laughable.

The Wild West Steakhouse and Saloon serves up a good steak at a reasonable price but could have been so much better if they made some very small upgrades to their presentation. Try it yourself and see.

Top Five

I had an inquiry about why I have not been more specific about what are the top places to eat in Waco. I can make numerous excuses but the fact is I just have not wanted to go to all the trouble that this complicated question produces.

The Top Five restaurants in any community can be defined in a lot of ways. I really don't consider chain restaurants the equal of chef/owner establishments. Yes, chains do occasionally have professional chefs that prepare excellent dishes but most of the time the food is prepared to exact recipe standards by a skilled cook who has been trained to follow specific instructions for those items on the company menu.

Some where back in Omaha, an executive chef is designing these dishes right down to the last cut. At some places, all the sauces and ingredients are prepared in advance and shipped to each location where they are combined according to plan and laid upon your table.

In my book, the food may taste just fine but this is not in the same category as a restaurant that allows a professionally trained chef to design a menu, select fresh meats and vegetables, and prepare the food according to local tastes and preferences.

Waco and surrounding area (10 miles)
Top Five Restaurants
Top Five Chain Restaurants
Top Five Hole-in-the Wall Restaurants
Top Five Barbecue Joints
Top Five Tex/Mex
Top Five Burgers

Top Five Restaurants
135 Prime
1424
The Green Room Grille
Diamondbacks
Elite Circle Grill

Top Five Chains
Cheddar's
Outback Steakhouse
Pei Wei
Logan's Roadhouse
Cotton Patch Cafe

Top Five Barbecue
The Rib Crib
Rudy's
Uncle Dan's
Dickey's
Michna's

Top Five Hole-in-the Wall
El Tapatio
D's Chicken
Park's Buffet
Tony DeMaria's
Clay Pot

Top Five Burgers
Kitok Restaurant
Dubl-r Hamburgers
Kupps
Fuddrucker's
George's

Top Five Tex/Mex
Ninfa's
El Tapatio
La Fiesta
Siete Mares
El Chico

It is all opinion.

Outdoors in the Middle of Nowhere

I recently made my second visit to the Cyclone Coral Barbecue. This seasonal favorite is located east of Temple in a very rural portion of Bell County off of Highway 53. The open air pavilion is opens in April and closes in October. They are open on Friday and Saturday nights only. It is a great place to take groups - especially out-of-towners. They can't believe the drive to get from Waco to the Cyclone.

I have eaten Mikeska's Barbeque on many occasions. Texas Monthly Magazine calls them the "First Family of Texas Barbecue." That of course is mostly hype but they have several family members engaged in the trade throughout Texas. John, Clem, Mike, Jerry, Rudy, Louis, Maurice, Tim, Sam, and many other members of this Czechoslovakia family are scattered all over Texas cooking barbecue from Temple to El Campo.

Janell Mikeska runs this location and does a great job. She was all over the place directing staff the night we were there. The $12.50 all you can eat family style dinner is better that average food. It would have to be to get customers to drive 30 to 45 minutes to get there.

The brisket is served nicely sliced and is very lean. The pork spare ribs are very good - dark and smokey but not overdone. They have just the right amount of toothsome texture to let you know they have been recently prepared. The sausage has a peppery taste that makes it stand out from other milder stuff. Sauce is served warm in a little pitcher and is a good compliment to the meats.

The sides of corn on the cob, potato salad, beans, and home baked bread are all good. I really like the sweet vinegar slaw. It is special and had to be refilled several times. Peach cobbler is extra but is a welcome ending to the meal. Beer is served but I saw some tailgating in the parking lot as some waited a few minutes for tables.

It may be the middle of nowhere but the atmosphere and barbecue are great.

Catching Up

Summer is a little slow in the food blog department although there is some news in the Waco community. As I mentioned (not by name) in a previous post, Buzzard Billy's will be closing its current location. The property has been sold and may become the location of a hotel. I have found the food at Billy's to be mostly above average. It is certainly not the best seafood/Cajun restaurant around but it does contribute some variety to the Waco food scene. Perhaps a new location will allow the owners to upgrade the interior. Certainly the smoking - non-smoking areas can be arranged better. The ventilation system never quite seemed to rid the restaurant section of all of the bar smoke. The old woody walls and unfinished floors did little to enhance my dining experience. If you don't own the building or have a long-term lease, it may not be smart to spend big buck on improvements. I hope they survive and find a new location that they can freshen up.

I have eaten at a Chipolte Grill on a couple of occasions. It seems that we are getting one in Waco. I think that one of these can survive here in Waco. I can usually wade through the different options and produce a decent burrito or soft taco. In Waco, I would always try to open a new restaurant in the fall and be ready for the Baylor school year and the the holiday season. January 1 is usually not a great target date and I don't think Chipolte will be greeted with the long lines that Pei Wei generated. More like Dickey's or Buffalo Wild Wings.

Speaking of Pei Wei, it is hard to argue with success but our version has yet to reach its stride in service, comfort or quality. A recent visit to a Pei Wei in Plano convinced me that the Waco location can do a better job. Bring the orders out at the same time (or in the proper sequence if an appetizer is ordered) all hot and plated properly.

On a rare drive through Killeen last week, I noticed that there is a Texas Land and Cattle Company on Highway 190. I generally regard this steakhouse to be one of the better franchises. Probably a cut above Outback. Could they be a candidate for Texas Central Marketplace or Legends Crossing?

Can't Let Tradition Die

The return of Vitek's may be imminent but I not sure this will make any ripples in the barbecue world. Vitek's has enjoyed a long run here in Waco but it is probably not because of the smoked meat. I have visited Vitek's several times in the last 5 years and have been served take-out from there on a couple of occasions. I have never found it to be much more that average in flavor.

So why is Vitek's regarded with such reverence by many long time Waco residents? The answer of course is tradition. Because of its location, thousands of Baylor students have eaten here on a regular basis for many years. When you eat somewhere over and over for years, you build up a sentiment for a place. It becomes the flavor of your youth, the taste you associate with memories and experiences. To be fair, Vitek's has done a consistently good job serving its loyal following and adding to that tradition by creating a memorable dish like the Gut Pak. This signature mixture of Fritos, cheese, chopped barbecue, and beans is what most people crave at Vitek's.

Who has the best barbecue in Waco? I can give you a quick list that is guaranteed to start an argument. Rib Crib, Dickey's, and Rudy's are the most complete. A good variety of smoked meats, quality sides, and tasty sauce. Yes they are chains - but good ones that deliver a quality product. Michna's, Uncle Dan's, and Demaria's are solid local operations that excel in some areas and all have a loyal following.

The best barbecue in Waco may not actually be in Waco. At least three places west of Waco on Highway 6, are building word of mouth reputations that lure Q aficionados to make the short drive across the lake and beyond.

I would rank Vitek's well behind most of the better known places selling barbecue in Waco. I can honestly say that I prefer Jasper's, and One Stop to Vitek's. But Vitek's is older than all of those and has a history that has made an impression on the customers. Tradition dies hard.

Missing in Action

A recent visit to Chicago with three others from Waco reminded me of just how little real Italian food we have here. The first night at one of Chicago's best steak places, two of my associates opted for pasta dishes instead of dry-aged beef. Following a night of deep-dish pizza, on night three we again ate Italian at La Scarola. Pasta Sinatra was a feast of wonderful seafood, spicy arrabiata sauce, and delicious veal were both excellent. Only a visit to Chinatown and Frontera Grill got us off the Italian gravy train.

I guess I should not have been surprised that we all over indulged in Italian while in Chicago. There just isn't much here in Waco that satisfies my hunger for first rate pasta. I wish it weren't so. Can we not find a little family place that delivers creative Italian fare? Can't somebody deliver Italian the way Yanni's deliver Greek?

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I'm not a fast food fan but when it comes to fast food commercials I will watch every Jack in the Box ad that comes on the tube. I don't know who creates those ads but they keep me entertained. The latest ad touts Jack's sirloin burger as superior to the Angus burgers served by competitors. The advertisement is a bit vulgar but certainly funny. Funnier still is the response from Carl's Jr. that the ads are misleading.

Jack in the Box Ads Called Misleading By GARY GENTILE
AP Business Writer

LOS ANGELES — The parent company of the Carl's Jr. and Hardee's fast food chains sued rival Jack In The Box Inc. on Friday to stop TV ads that it says suggest Carl's Jr. and Hardee's use cow anus to make Angus beef hamburgers.

CKE Restaurants Inc. sued Jack In The Box in U.S. District Court on Friday over an ad in which executives laugh hysterically at the word "Angus" and another where the chain's ping-pong ball-headed mascot, Jack, is asked to point to a diagram of a cow and show where Angus meat comes from.

"I'd rather not," the pointy-nosed Jack replies.

The employee asking the question traces a circle in the air with his pen while pronouncing the word Angus.

CKE claims the ads create the misleading impression that Jack In The Box's new 100 percent sirloin burgers use a better quality of meat than the Angus beef used by Carl's Jr. and Hardee's. CKE claims the spots confuse consumers by comparing sirloin, a cut of meat found on all cattle, with Angus, which is a breed of cattle.

Executives at San Diego-based Jack In The Box had not seen the lawsuit and could not respond, company spokeswoman Kathleen Anthony said.

Funny stuff. Don't be confused!

Hot Chow

Today’s rumor is that a large building housing one of Waco’s long-time popular restaurants has been sold. The result is that the restaurant will close in its current location. Will it reopen? Maybe it will but no confirmation of that at this time. More to come.

From Smoky to Ashes - The Fire Is Out

It certainly took longer than I imagined and it was definitely bigger than I thought. Darden Restaurants Incorporated announced that it has closed its Smoky Bones Barbecue and Grill in Waco. That was long overdue. In addition, Darden says it is closing 56 of its Smokey Bones Barbeque and Grill locations and will offer the remaining 73 for sale. I guess that people in other states loved their barbecue about as much as I did.

I predicted several posts back that Smoky Bones wouldn't last. We have too much better Q in Waco. All of the Smoky Bones west of the Mississippi will be closed along with some in Indiana and Florida. Darden operates about 1,400 Red Lobster, Olive Garden, Bahama Breeze, Smokey Bones and Seasons 52 restaurants across the United States. Could we get a different Darden franchise in the same location? None of Darden's other franchises will make an impact here.

What are the top choices to appear in this market?

Any Pappas Restaurant
Abuelo's
Cheesecake Factory
Saltgrass Steakhouse
Chuy's
Texas Land and Cattle Company
Macaroni Grill
Mimi's
Baker Brothers American Deli

Do you have other favorites that could take over this spot in Texas Central Marketplace?