Summer News is Mostly Mexican

Well of course there has been some news about Waco restaurants this summer. I have been eating in other pastures during the last two months.

Locally, I visited the newish location of Trevino's in China Spring. It is a nice spot and still a reliable choice in Mexican food. I liked their food when they were in the Hewitt area. I seemed even a little better in this location. Good enchiladas and fajitas. Give it a try.

Mi Tequila on Valley Mills was a no frills lunch spot that offered a limited menu, quick service, and cheap prices. As a lunch stop, it is OK if you are hungry or in the area. It won't crack my top five but it will do for lunch.

What might effect the Top Five Mexican choices is the arrival of Chuy's. Construction is underway in Legends Crossing on Highway 6. The Original Chuy’s is on Barton Springs Rd. in Austin. Owners Mike Young and John Zapp opened it in 1982. The place was decorated with balck velvet paintings of Stevie Wonder and Elvis on a budget of about $20. They now have 14 locations. There arrival will have some impact on the local food scene. Will in be like Cheddar's? Probably not in this economy but it should be popular.

A New List

Top Restaurants

Cheeves Brothers (Temple) - Not a bargain but excellent beef and side dishes

1424 - Good choice for adults looking for a moderately priced evening

Elite Circle Grille - Nice bar and decent but not great food

Both of these are overpriced for the Waco market.

Your money is better spent in the Metroplex

The Green Room Grille

Diamondbacks

Top Chains (not BBQ or Mexican)

Cheddar's

Outback

Panera Bread Company Steakhouse

Logan's Roadhouse

Cotton Patch Cafe

Pei Wei - not a good representative of this chain's quality

Top Barbecue

Bunkhouse Barbecue (Clifton)

Rudy's

Michna's

Uncle Dan's

Unusual

Bangkok Royal (Thai) - Explore the menu.

Parks Buffet - Best country buffet around

D's Chicken - Middle Eastern in Waco

Top Burgers

Kitok's Restaurant

Zeb's (China Spring) - Hewitt branch needs improving

Fuddrucker's

Cricket's Grill & Drafthouse

Cupps - Breakfast and lunch counter

Top Tex/Mex

Don Carlos - This Houston import has its ups and downs but is a good value

Ninfa's

El Tapatio

La Fiesta

Top Italian

Rosati's

Gratizano's

I Am Depressed

Disappointment is a part of life. However, when it comes to your table served on a platter it can be depressing.

I recently visited the new Zeb’s located in Hewitt. I am a big fan of Zeb’s (see January 2009) and have enjoyed the food at the China Spring location. Unfortunately, this new location is not quite up to the standards of the original. As usual, they were overwhelmed the week that they opened. Just too many people were trying to sample the newest place in town.

After waiting a couple of weeks, I was able to visit twice during April. The burgers were good – large and juicy and served on a fluffy fresh bun. The fries however were less that spectacular on both visits. Golden but limp on the first occasion, too dark and less that hot on the second. It was clear to a veteran fry critic that the oil in the deep fryer was past its prime. Without getting too technical, after a lot of continued use, the oil can take on a darker color that it imparts to the potatoes. Serving them quickly will keep them from turning limp and losing their heat. I hope that this will be corrected soon since Zeb’s great fries are big attraction.

A recent visit to the Lake Brazos Steakhouse did not put me in a better mood. My ribeye steak was thin and cooked well beyond medium. My companion’s sirloin was unusually tough and fatty. An order of squash casserole had plenty of cheese but not much squash. It was an oily mess instead of the side dish I normally enjoy.

While not one of my favorites, Cotton Patch Café is a regular stop for several of my friends. On a recent visit with them, the CPC underperformed by confusing an order and serving my friends a dinner that had sat too long to be considered at a good serving temperature. Efforts to get this corrected by the staff were too little too late.

I hope this trend turns around soon. I can’t imagine being too depressed to eat out but stranger things have happened.

Country Cooking

During the last few weeks, I have had the opportunity to sample three different country buffets around Waco.. Historically he country buffet is usually a family owned operation that includes a salad bar, an assortment of vegetables, multiple meat options, breads, beverages, and desserts. They are almost always an all-you-can-eat format although many now offer options for lighter appetites.

Today chains such as Golden Corral, Old Country Buffet, Hometown Buffet, Country Buffet, Ryan's, and K-Bob’s replicate this experience throughout the U.S.
Locally, we have lost our Ryan’s but we still have a couple of choices in this area.

I reviewed Parks Family Buffet a few months ago. A recent visit found very few changes in the menu or the service. I still enjoyed the crisp pork chops, the fresh squash, and the green pea salad. Don’t miss the catfish (Fridays) and bread pudding for dessert. Parks is a classic country buffet owned by two brothers.

Just south of Waco in Lorena, a new buffet Raymond’s Southern Kitchen operates using a similar formula. Raymond’s salad offerings are a bit slim and the dressing choices limited. The lettuce is a good mix of iceberg, leaf and romaine accompanied by a few additional add-ons.

Some of the more interesting entrees included a tasty stuffed bell pepper, a hearty chopped sirloin in brown gravy and crunchy fried catfish. They were all well prepared and presented. The vegetables were also well prepared. Flavorful mashed potatoes and a excellent sautéed squash mix were standouts. Ordinary rolls and cornbread didn’t excite me but the peach cobbler was a nice finish to the meal.

A weekend visit to Gatesville included a stop at Andy’s Restaurant. This is a very popular place with lots of cars in the parking lot. Their salad bar was the highlight of this adventure. A freezer stocked with chilled plates stood at the beginning of a well-stocked assortment of lettuces and veggies. Additional pre-made salads included a tasty krab salad and an interesting southwestern salad that had hominy. The lack of any blue cheese dressing was the only real omission.

Unfortunately, things went downhill after the salad. All of the vegetable choices looked canned or frozen and the meat selections I sampled were below average. The lemon pepper grilled fish should have been good but too much spice and to much heat made it tasty salty and dry. Chicken fried steak had a nice crust but the thin slice of steak was dry and chewy. Brisket and sausage were below par and served with a too sweet commercial sauce. Andy’s also offers a breakfast buffet that is rumored to be their best offering.

Of these three choices, Parks is still the best value. Raymond’s has some good options and I did like the atmosphere. I can’t recommend a trip to Andy’s.

Patty Meltdown

Backyard Burgers has closed their second location in Central Texas Marketplace. The original location in the little wedge of land where Valley Mills and Bosque meet closed quite a few months ago. That was probably a better location that TCM but there was very little competition in the Marketplace.

Backyard Burgers never cracked my top five burger list and failed in spite of numerous ads and coupons over the last several months. While this was not a big loss, it does demonstrate that many marginal restaurants are on the edge of survival.

The news that Chuy's will locate across Highway 6 in Legend's Crossing is exciting news for the Waco foodscene. Chuy's is an Austin legend with outposts in Dallas and Roundrock. They will be crowded from day one and will give Don Carlos some competition as the best Mexican food in Waco. They are known for their annual Green Chile Festival.

As a follow up to my January Post, a second location of Zeb's will open on Hewitt Dr. in the next few days. This is a great addition to my neighborhood and probably a shorter drive for many customers.

I continue to be amazed at the popularity of Waco's Red Lobster franchise. It is poorly managed and offers average seafood. In a recent experience there, we were told a 30 minute wait at 9:00 PM. with 4 empty prepared tables in view and 4 more tables empty but not bused. I glanced at the list and saw only 4 names ahead our ours. This is typical of this location.

It seems unlikey (in this economy) that we will ever get the competition (Joe's, Rockfish, Pappadeaux's) needed to force them to improve. Why worry about service and quality when you are packed?

It Is About The Fries

I am glad the holidays are behind us. Too much home cooking and not enough restaurant visits. I did get to make my second trip to Zeb's Backyard Grill. I now feel comfortable recommending Zeb's to anyone in the area looking for a good burger and fresh french fries. Zeb's is probably the best of the new food spots that have appeared on the road to China Spring. Zeb's can stand toe-to-toe with just about any burger place in the Central Texas area.

Starting with a nice selection of basic burgers and moving to a group of more sophisticated group of toppings, Zeb's seems to get it right each time. I have yet to try the Wambo - a featured offering of pepper jack cheese, jalapeno bun, and jalapenos but it looks outstanding. I have had the Double Time and the Chili Cheese. They were both excellently prepared. For the less ambitious, the Ol' Fashion, Cheeseburger, and Bacon Cheese are sound selections.

Zeb's also has a nice selections of salads including an Apple Walnut Chicken and a Buffalo Chicken that my accompanying friends enjoyed. I think that is why I have not tried the Wambo. I would probably feel self conscious being surrounded by salad munchers. I guess I need a better class of lunch partners.

If anything make Zeb's a standout choice, it would have to be the wonderful fresh cut french fries. They are as good as they get. To me, if you intend to be taken seriously in the burger-barbecue world, you won't serve frozen potatoes. Owner Zeb Hering must agree because he does it right.

Zeb’s Backyard Grill
10207 China Spring Road
254.836-8282
They are closed on Sundays

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A Chill at the Grille

The Waco Hilton Hotel has undergone an extensive renovation during the last year. The result is a modern and more luxurious hotel with new food service. I have been to two event dinners at the Hilton since new food service personnel have been on board. Both of these events, offered well prepared meals that were significant improvements from past Hilton experiences. They now have the capability to produce a first class catered dinner in any of their newly remodeled ballrooms.

It is unfortunate that this quality has not transported to the hotel’s new daily food service location, The Grille. Gone is Damon’s and the barbecue/grill menu that existed for several years in a sports bar atmosphere. In its place, is a daily buffet that could have been a real improvement.

Not that The Grille doesn’t have its strong points. At night, The Grille features a traditional menu of steaks and fish that while pricy are of good quality. The $8.95 weekday lunch buffet offers guests an above average lunch. The problem is that it could be so much better.

Many of The Grille’s deficiencies may be due to a lack of volume. After several visits to the weekday buffet, I cannot recall a single day when the room have been at even half capacity. This lack of customers causes some quality control problems that pull down what could be a decent dining experience.

The salad and sandwich portion of the buffet is in serious need of a makeover. The small bowl of greens with only two choices of bottled salad dressing can get a wilted look after an hour or two. Likewise, the cold cuts for sandwiches can dry out. The bread offered for sandwiches could be a bit more adventurous instead of the very ordinary sliced bread served.

The hot entrees and vegetables served in chafing dishes at the buffet have been very good. Fish, pasta, chicken breast, and fajitas have all been well prepared and plentiful. I have been impressed by the quality and quantity of these choices.

Service has been good on each occasion although I have never had the same attendant twice. Not surprising considering the lack of business.

My visit to the weekend brunch buffet (at almost double the price) was a marginal success. The buffet is served from 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM on Sunday and leans heavily on the BR and less one the UNCH. The majority of selections were breakfast items. This can be a problem because the egg dishes offered deteriorate over this span of time.

I did enjoy the Belgian Waffles and the smoked salmon that appeared on an expanded salad buffet. Several additional items were there as add-ins to the basic greens but still the same two inferior dressings. The higher price weekend buffet did not deliver the higher value and quality I would have expected. Perhaps if the volume improves some of these issues will disappear. I can recommend the lunch and an expensive steak dinner but not the weekend brunch.

The economic slide is beginning to take a toll on area restaurants. Ryan’s Family Steakhouse shut its doors in mid November. Dickey’s is back as Bill’s but probably not for long. TGI Friday’s has been rumored to be only a day away from closing.

Nothing But Time

There is not a lot of positive stuff happening on the Waco food scene. New projects seem to be moving slowly and several establishments seem on the verge of closing. I have recently heard a couple of advertising blasts from places that may be trying to stir up that extra bit of business that will keep them operating.

Sad to report that Dickey's has closed. The signs were there in recent months that they were near the edge. The owners took a lot of steps and made several cuts to control costs and attract business. Will they be back? Possible, but the economic downturn makes marginal businesses go under and great ideas for a new place sit on the back burner.

I have been watching progress on the rumored Italian spot located behind McAllister's on Waco Dr. Not a lot happening inside the empty shell.

Stopped in at Se Cocina last week only to discover that they still do not have a beer and wine license. I would expect that they need that extra revenue to stay healthy.

A recent visit to 1424 on Washington was a pleasant evening. I don't think the food slipped much since the Yanni's group took over. It is still a reliable place to take visitors from out of town who might be wondering if we have more that just Mexican, Chicken Fried steak, or barbecue. I had a very tasty lamb dish that is a rarity in Waco.

Waco and surrounding areas (30+ miles)

Top Restaurants
Cheeves Brothers
1424
The Green Room Grille
Diamondbacks
The Grille (Hilton Hotel)
Elite Circle Grille

Top Chains
Cheddar's
Outback Steakhouse
Pei Wei
Logan's Roadhouse
Cotton Patch Cafe

Top Barbecue
Bunkhouse Barbecue (Clifton)
Rudy's
Michna's
Uncle Dan's

Unusual
D's Chicken
Parks Buffet
Bangkok Royale Thai
Clay Pot

Top Burgers
Kitok Restaurant
Zeb's (China Spring)
Cupps
Fuddrucker's
Cricket's Grill & Drafthouse

Top Tex/Mex
Don Carlos
Ninfa's
El Tapatio
La Fiesta

Top Italian
Rosati's
Gratizano's
Italian Garden (China Spring)

It is all opinion.

Don One

I waited until after the first week before attempting a visit to Don Carlos. This Houston based small chain (4 locations - 3 in Houston) hit Waco around mid-August. As usual in Waco, it has been swamped with customers since the opening. The fact that the opening date was published in the paper was probably an error. A soft and quiet opening a few days in advance of the published date would have given the management a few shifts to work out any kinks in the kitchen or in the front of the house. I always advise people to wait a while but many want to be the first to each new place.

Judging from what I heard from some of these earlybirds service has been an issue. Some of the complaints are probably due to long wait times, some to inexperienced staff, and in some cases it appears that the kitchen may have been surprised and overwhelmed by the traffic. They probably should have called and talked to the people at Cheddar's.

I made first visit on a weekday morning when I completed a trip to Best Buy. I was driving by at about 11:20 AM and decided to beat the rush. This proved to be a good strategy because when I left about fifty minutes later the wait was over 40 minutes. This also allowed me to get fresh and hot food from the kitchen without a long service delay.

The lunch menu at Don Carlos is of unusually good value. I expected smaller servings and higher prices but was very surprised by the quantity, quality, and price of my three enchilada plate. I hope this is not just an introductory offer but I don't see how that can serve three beef enchiladas, rice, beans, chips, salsa, and queso for $4.95. That's right - I paid $4.95. I am eager to return at lunch just to see if this is still the price.

Of course price doesn't matter if the food is bad. It wasn't. Just the basics first. I loved the lightweight chips that were fresh and crisp. The fire-roasted tomatoes added an extra dimension to the warm bowl of salsa that came with the chips. Not too spicy but good flavor. Flour and corn tortillas were about average. The beans were very good. I thought that the refried and the charo beans had good texture, aroma, and taste. The rice clumped a little and could have used some additions. It was just OK.

On my second visit (late dinner), we waited about fifteen minutes for a table. Service was quick and efficient. I ordered a grilled sirloin dish and was very satisfied with the size of the cut and the flavor. There was a bit of toughness on one edge of the meat but not enough to spoil the dish.

Take your time and give the menu a full read. You will find some dishes with some unusual ingredients that we don't often see in Waco, Texas.

It took about twenty-five minutes from order to table. This a bit too long but not unacceptable at the end of a busy evening.

My third visit was on Fajita Night (Wednesday). Walked in at 8:15 PM and although the restaurant was crowded, we had no wait for a table for five. Beef or Chicken, fajitas were offered for a special price of $8.95! This is $3.00 below the regular menu price.The chicken was tasty and plentiful. I could have made four well stuffed fajitas of six normal ones. The plater of meat was accompanied by onions, peppers, rice, beans, tortillas, pico de gallo, and avocados. The plates arrived within fifteen minutes and the service was sharp and attentive.

Margaritas were pronounced good and were fairly priced. An order of sweet and crispy sopapillas topped off the dinner. I have spoken to several people who have placed this new restaurant at the top of their list for Mexican food in Waco. I have to agree with them. I have been to Don Carlos three times and it has been better each visit.

I think it is too early to proclaim Don Carlos as the King of All Mexican Food in Waco. But Don Carlos has made a good start by providing ample servings and delivering strong dollar value at both lunch and dinner. If you were one of the unlucky ones that visited Don Carlos too early, wait another week or two and try it again.

China Spring Road

Last month, business took me on a drive to a part of our community that I do not regularly visit. 19th St. becomes FM 1637 as you travel northwest to China Spring. The development along this corridor is proceeding at a fairly fast pace. With the growth, comes new restaurants to explore!

An old Hewitt favorite of mine, Trevino's, has resurfaced in this area after a brief stopover on Valley Mills. Zeb's Backyard Grill has been featured on a local PBS show because of its hamburgers. Another branch of the successful La Fiesta family has sprouted in this area as well.

With all these choices, it was difficult to make a decision where to eat first. I chose the Italian Garden at 10207 China Spring Rd. Owned by Nicki and Sophia Colaku, the restaurant has survived the most critical period for most places and is approaching its second birthday.

Because of its strip shopping center location, the restaurant has very little drive by appeal. Once you have parked I can't really say that a closer look will fill you with any apprehension of Great Food Inside. Upon entering you will find a more pleasant and comfortable atmosphere. You won't think you are in Naples but enough interior design is in place to make you feel like you are in an Italian setting.

Even this modest decor would be wasted if the food was poor. It is not. In fact, it has enough flavor and creativity to make it worth the short drive. My Italian sausage and peppers served over pasta had good flavor and was loaded with meat. Our young and inexperienced waiter suggested Joe’s Garden Special. Lot's of chicken breast sautéed with spinach and fresh tomatoes in a creamy pink sauce. A solid choice. The special of the day was a broccoli and fettuccine in an Alfredo sauce - again a large and tasty entree.

The house salad dressing was described as a tomato vinegarette. It came thickly applied and seemed to overwhelm the lettuce. My blue cheese was just fine. The pizza seemed quite popular at other tables and looked like something you might want to order.

Our server acted as though it was his first day on the job. He repeatedly interrupted our conversation to ask if we needed anything or if all was OK. A less intrusive observational approach would have been appreciative. Still, he tried very hard.

The portion sizes were all very good and I felt they offered good value. Most of the dinners are priced between $10 and $15. This price includes a dinner salad (iceberg average) and some delicious house made dinner rolls (very good). The lunch specials are also a bargain.

How would I rank Italian Garden? If you are tired of chain restaurant Italian, then Italian Garden should grant you some welcome relief. The main dishes show some flair and provide something a bit different. I think it is on a par with Gratziano's and Rossati's. I would rank it ahead of all the Barris incarnations. It is worth the drive.